Step 1: Moisture Testing

We start by testing the concrete for moisture using accurate surface-level gauges. This critical step determines how much protection your floor will need during prep. If this step is skipped and moisture is present, it won’t matter how well the surface is prepped or how high-end the product is—the coating will fail. That’s why we never skip it.

Step 2: Concrete Hardness Testing

Not all concrete is created equal. We test the hardness of your surface to select the right grinding discs. If we use discs that are too aggressive on soft concrete, it digs in too deep—making the surface overly porous, causing the chips not to adhere to the epoxy and eventually loosen. If the concrete is hard and we use discs that are too soft, they won’t open the pores enough, and the epoxy won’t bond properly, leading to peeling. This step ensures perfect mechanical adhesion based on your floor’s specific profile.

Step 3: Full Surface Grinding

Next, we grind the entire surface using a 12-disc commercial-grade grinder (most use only 8). This machine levels the floor while reaching deeper into the concrete to fully open the pores. Even perfectly poured slabs have low spots—a standard grinder creates uneven dips. Our 12-disc system “floats” these dips and keeps the floor level. Opening the pores deeply, ensuring our epoxy bonds into the concrete, not just on top of it—this is what makes it last. To control dust—which can ruin adhesion—we use an industrial vacuum system designed to capture every particle during grinding, leaving your property clean and your floor fully ready for epoxy. If the dust is not mitigated it will be in the air and will not settle for a long period of time. This causes a problem when applying epoxy. The epoxy will then not adhere properly. The best thing is our grinder is powered by propane. Electric is unable to produce the power needed to run a machine of this quality. It allows for more power to get the floor prepped in half the time so you can be back on it sooner and leaves behind a perfectly prepped floor.

Step 4: Edge Grinding

Many companies skip proper edge work, but we don’t. If the edges are not prepped with the same precision as the center of the floor, the epoxy will begin to peel from the edges inward—undoing all the hard work. We use high-grade mini-grinders to get tight against the edges, ensuring a completely bonded floor from wall to wall.

Step 5: Crack & Imperfection Repair

After grinding, we repair all cracks and surface flaws using an industrial-grade joint compound stronger than the concrete itself. If the right joint compound is not used it will not adhere long term and eventually crack.

Now the final step before the epoxy application is very important and often overlooked by many. Just because the floor looks clean does not mean it is. Our deep clean process removes oils, grease, wax, or any other contaminants that could prevent the epoxy from bonding properly to the concrete. It dries super fast, which means it won’t leave moisture behind—this is critical because epoxy won’t bond well to damp surfaces. While our process is not as aggressive as acid etching or grinding,Our deep clean still slightly opens the surface pores of the concrete, improving epoxy penetration and adhesion.

Step 6: Epoxy Application

We use a high-performance moisture-blocking epoxy base coat, not a polyaspartic like many others. Even after testing for moisture, grinding exposes fresh concrete, which could still hold residual moisture. Epoxy’s built-in vapor barrier gives us certainty and protection. Polyaspartic bais coats have 0 protection against moisture. Epoxy base coat penetrates deeper than polyaspartic, locking in your new floor and giving it unbeatable adhesion and durability.

Step 7: Chip Broadcasting

Next, we broadcast ¼-inch color chips—not too small, not too large—ensuring a balanced, professional look. We apply these evenly across the floor to give it character, texture, and long-term beauty. After a short drying period (about 2 hours depending on temperature), the chips are ready for finishing.

We scrape off excess chips to level the surface and remove any that didn’t fully adhere. This step is crucial—done incorrectly, it could leave rough spots or cause future peeling. We use premium scrapers that remove just the right amount, leaving behind a perfectly textured floor ready for the top coat.

Step 8: Polyaspartic Top Coat + Optional Slip Guard

When applying the top coat, we use a premium-grade polyaspartic coating—20 times stronger than other top coats. Creating a tighter, longer-lasting seal.

The thickness of the application is critical. If it’s spread too thin, the surface will feel rough and unfinished. If it’s applied too thick, it becomes Slippery. We use high-performance application tools to achieve the perfect balance between smoothness and traction, ensuring your floor is safe, functional, and beautiful. This top coat will protect against. Tire marks, Stains, Peeling and Uv damage. For extra protection, we offer a Slip Guard additive in the final coat. Ensuring you and your family stay safe.